An equalized charge is often defined as a controlled overcharge. This is a true 100% full charge of the battery bank. Check each cell voltage with a hand held digital voltmeter and compare readings of all the cells of the bank so that you can tell how equal all the cells are. Cells voltages should all be within .05 volts for batteries at rest (no charging or discharging happening) for example the highest reading may be 2.15 volts and the lowest reading may be 2.10 volts. If cells vary by more than this than you should charge the batteries until all cells fall within .05 volts.

If the battery bank consists of 6 volt or 12 volt batteries that do not allow you to take voltage readings of each individual 2 volt cell and you do not have a All Cell Digital Tester then checking each cell with a battery hydrometer is the only way to be absolutely sure that the batteries are equalized. Each cell is fully charged at or about 1.270 points specific gravity on a temperature compensated battery hydrometer. This reading may actually vary slightly due to manufacturers different specs for various battery types. Some batteries may be fully charged at 1.260 specific gravity. Equalized cells will all be fully charged and all within .010 points specific gravity of each other.

Unequal cells as measured by specific gravity with a battery hydrometer are a normal fact of battery life especially with deep cycle batteries. Over several charge/discharge cycles the individual 2 volt cells (3 per each 6 volt battery) drift apart in voltage and the only way to bring them all back to an equal state of charge is to overcharge the entire battery bank until the cells lowest in charge catch up with the other cells. Cells that are in a low state of charge will begin to sulfate, that is the lead sulfate on the plates stays there because it is not driven off during a complete recharging of that cell. The longer the sulfate stays on the battery plate the more crystallized and hard it becomes making it more difficult to get it off the plates and back in the electrolyte solution. Sulfation on the plates means less plate area for the electro- chemical process to take place which results in reduced storage capacity.



Battery De-Sulfater is a non-acid chemical formula that will break down deadly sulfation corrosion that has formed on the plates and insulators. Battery De-Sulfater will restore the normal action in the cells of a mechanically sound battery (mechanically sound meaning batteries that still barely work and that do not have a cracked and / or broken plate and or connection) by breaking down, dissolving and help to keep hard crystallized sulfation from forming again.

Battery equalization works if the battery is not too heavily sulfated but if it is then there is the risk of creating too much heat which would result in shedding some active material from the plates, warping them and ultimately destroying the battery. Battery De-Sulfater added to the sulfated cells breaks up hard sulfation and allows the battery to charge back up much faster with much less heat therefore preserving the integrity of the battery.

Before adding Battery De-Sulfater shake bottle well to mix up the ingredients, this is very important! After adding Battery De-Sulfater charge at 10 amps or less for the first charge. After that cycle (cycle meaning discharge/charge) the battery 4 to 5 times for maximum removal of lead sulfate crystals. If you have a 12-volt battery that is below 12-volts, say 11 volts or a 6-volt battery that is below 6 volts, say 5 volts then charge at 2 amps. Note that charging at this low amperage it will take days to bring back these heavily sulfated batteries. If your 12 volt battery is below 11 volts or your 6-volt battery below 5 volts then it may be best to just replace the batteries. Battery De-Sulfater works every time in any mechanically sound battery.